The joke was so old it was only when I tried to book a room at the White Stork hotel and couldn’t find it online that I remembered that wasn’t actually its name.
The White Swan, which is in fact its name and under which, obviously, it is listed on booking websites, was for years the most famous hotel in southern China, at least to foreigners.
It is a fine building, with a striking waterfall in the lobby, magnificent views from its bar over the Pearl River and an excellent location amid the colonial-era buildings of Guangzhou’s Shamian Island. So its place in the travel guides is assured. But the reason for its fame was quite other, though now relegated to a footnote in history books.
Over more than 30 years, the White Swan hosted…
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