Topkapi Palace is spoiled by over-tourism, though, which is never nice to admit when you yourself are the walking, talking, gawking problem. But more insights unfurl later, when Genc stresses that the harem was an elevation of mothers. “Mothers are very important,” she says. “This is a problem for my generation — without being a mum, you are half. If you don’t want children, you are sick, how you dare? Mothers struggle too but everyone will help look after your kid and give you what you need, so it is still the safe option.” Harem mentality persists, then, in a country where one’s babaanne (father’s mother) reigns supreme. “Babaanne is just sitting on the sofa, like in a palace, giving the orders,” Genc says, miming a haughty head toss. Your teyze (mother’s sister) “can be your bestie” but your hala (father’s sister) “is concerned with improving opinions about you”.
In Istanbul’s Beyoglu, the ancient-sounding call to prayer yanks Istiklal Caddesi…
