On December 3, I woke up to a flurry of texts from concerned friends. Overnight during a televised address, South Korean President Yoon Suk Yeol abruptly declared martial law (temporary military rule over a civilian government), plummeting the country’s capital city into panic. A mere six hours later, following mass protests in front of the National Assembly building, parliament unanimously rejected Yoon’s decree. If the failed power shift proved one thing, it’s this: South Koreans are effective at swiftly mobilizing and using protests to uphold democracy.
As a Korean American who visits Seoul often and regularly covers the destination—I’d just returned from my third trip of the year days before…












